General video · Level C1 - Part 2
How It's Made Woven Cashmere Fabric
The art of weaving has been around since the Stone Age. Traditional weavers use techniques and designs that reflect their cultural origins.
Level: C1 · 48 sentences
Transcript
- The art of weaving has been around since the Stone Age.
- Traditional weavers use techniques and designs that reflect their cultural origins.
- Today's fashion industry has built on this tradition to produce fine wool garments.
- Designers keep a record of the fabrics they have created over the years.
- They pin samples in books based on quality, colors, and patterns for their customers to choose from.
- This is what cashmere goat hair looks like when it arrives at the wool mill.
- Short fibers called flocks go through a carding machine.
- This machine opens up the fibers and mixes colors together.
- The carding process removes impurities and reduces the fibers to a flat layer.
- The machine combs and twists the layer of fiber in preparation for spinning.
- The spinner separates the layer into threads
- and winds each one on bobbins of over 40 pounds.
- An operator loads yarn into a dyeing machine.
- The entire fiber drying process takes about two hours for a reel this size.
- Uncarded blocks of hair called wool tops are used to make worsted yarn.
- A worker feeds the ribbon-like thread into a blending machine.
- The blending process merges 12 threads into one large strip.
- The machine re-combs and twists the blended fibers,
- then spins them into a single strand.
- The coning machine winds the single thread around a cone
- by pulling it through a tensioning device with a series of spindles underneath.
- This machine can cone 20 pounds of wool in about one hour.
- Another spinning machine slowly unwinds worsted wool bobbins.
- It accelerates as the threads run through a tensioning device and onto spindles.
- Even though the machine processes dozens of bobbins simultaneously,
- this process will last several hours.
- The set of threads that will make up the woven cloth is called the warp.
- Hundreds of parallel threads wind up on this roll called the warping machine.
- These rolls can stretch several miles long.
- The warp is now ready for weaving.
- This shuttle loom holds the warp under tension
- while it interweaves the over and under threads using two sets of weaving needles.
- This moving part, the beater, keeps the fabric under tension as it comes out of the loom and onto the cloth beam.
- This rapier loom can weave fabrics four or five times faster than an automatic shuttle loom
- and about 200 times faster than a hand-operated loom.
- The completed fabric goes to quality control.
- A worker performs a visual check, looking for any defects in the fabric.
- If she finds a broken thread, she repairs it by hand.
- Using a sewing needle, she replaces the broken thread with a new one.
- Once the fabric passes quality control, it goes through a two-hour cleaning process.
- Then the cloth rolls through a steaming machine
- before accumulating at the end of the production line.
- The finishing process for a woven cloth can take up to a week.
- Designers study the fabrics and choose arrangements to make a collection.
- They mark selected patterns with codes and cut out samples.
- Then they make a sample booklet of their fabrics for customers to choose from.
- The fabric collection changes twice a year,
- providing a wide variety of styles suited to the season.