TED Talks · Level C1 Mixing - Part 4
The dark history of Graham crackers
It was the early 1800s, and Presbyterian minister Sylvester Graham believed Americans had a big problem, not just with their bodies, but with their souls.
Level: C1 · 56 sentences
Transcript
- It was the early 1800s, and Presbyterian minister Sylvester Graham believed Americans had a big problem,
- not just with their bodies, but with their souls.
- He argued that overindulgence was fueling their baser desires,
- making them immoral and oversexed.
- To curb this corruption, Graham and fellow puritanical reformers advocated for food they thought could curb a variety of appetites.
- Following the American Revolution, things like excess alcohol use were increasingly perceived as blights on social order and civic virtue in a budding nation.
- The 19th century Christian Temperance movement encouraged abstinence from alcohol,
- eventually leading to federal Prohibition.
- But some branches of the movement promoted even more extreme restraint across the board.
- These reformers had some special areas of interest, including the bedroom.
- According to Graham, even divinely ordained marital sex could fall into harmfully excessive territory
- if it happened more than once a month.
- And like certain Enlightenment philosophers a century before him,
- Graham considered the so-called solitary vice of masturbation even more hazardous.
- He claimed it inflamed the brain and depleted the body's energy,
- causing everything from nervous disorders to stunted growth.
- To address this issue and others, Graham recommended measures including plenty of sleep on hard mattresses;
- regular bathing with cold water;
- and fresh air even in frigid temperatures.
- But one of his major points of focus was diet.
- He thought Americans were consuming decadent, flavorful food and drink
- that threw their bodies out of balance, weakened their self-control,
- and aroused un-Christian passions.
- So to suppress their supposedly hyperactive libidos,
- Graham advocated for a vegetarian diet of whole grains, fruits, and vegetables.
- And it needed to be bland - no pleasure-inciting spices to speak of.
- His signature contribution was Graham bread,
- the precursor to the Graham cracker, made from coarse, whole wheat Graham flour.
- He shared the recipe at no cost, encouraging everyone to bake their own.
- It was simple: just add water or milk, yeast, and perhaps a pinch of salt,
- nothing that might overstimulate the senses.
- Positioning himself as a public health advocate,
- Graham wrote books and held public lectures, alleging his diet would even help people survive a cholera outbreak.
- However, not everyone was so keen on his moralizing message and tasteless fare,
- including angry bakers who protested outside his talks.
- And Transcendentalist scholar Ralph Waldo Emerson cast doubt on the fanaticism of Graham's movement.
- One newspaper reporter is said to have mockingly dubbed Graham a "philosopher of sawdust pudding."
- And an outraged critic of the Graham diet said it consisted of, "swill, starch slosh" and "dishwater."
- But Graham also inspired ardent followers, who became known as Grahamites.
- Meanwhile, Graham's focus on digestive health appealed to figures like nutritionist James Jackson,
- who ran a health spa in upstate New York.
- Around 1863, Jackson began baking crumbled, granulated Graham flour cakes into a cereal he called Granula.
- And, in the 1890s, John Harvey Kellogg, head of another health spa, developed corn flakes
- by steaming, rolling, and baking corn into a similarly flavorless food.
- While Jackson was primarily concerned with preventing illness through diet,
- Kellogg continued Graham's crusade against masturbation.
- He called it "self-abuse," implicated it in all manner of ailments,
- and similarly promoted a dull diet to temper overactive sexual appetites.
- But the foods these men popularized would shapeshift far beyond their original forms.
- Granola and Corn Flakes underwent a series of saccharine and frosted reinventions.
- And decades after Graham's death,
- the National Biscuit Company began mass-producing Graham crackers with lighter flours and stimulating sweeteners.
- By 1927, people had started sandwiching toasted marshmallows and chocolate between Graham crackers,
- which the Girl Scouts christened "Some Mores," and the s'more was born.
- The decadent dessert was essentially the antithesis of Graham's vision
- and perhaps the ultimate ironic twist to his legacy.